Silestone vs. Granite Countertops - The Real Story

So you want to upgrade your kitchen or bathroom with a new countertop, but you're not sure what your options are. Chances are you've heard of granite and marble. After all, they have been used for myriad building purposes for centuries and you all the time see marble and granite countertops in luxury homes.

But what about Silestone...isn't it great than granite?

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Well, it depends on what you think is better. However, Silestone and other makers of engineered quartz stone countertops, such as Zodiaq and Cambria would have you believe their stock is a considerable upgrade from granite.

Engineered stone countertops are a artificial stock that mixes quartz found in granite with a resin to make a surface with properties practically same to granite. Silestone and all the other companies make essentially the same product, which is widely regarded as an exquisite countertop surface.

However, these companies try to make mountains out of molehills in an effort to sell their stock and compete against granite which is and has bee the most beloved and proven surface type.

Myth #1: Sealing granite is a horrible, dirty chore.

This issue has been blown way out of proportion with marketing. It's all the time listed as a benefit and one would get the impression that granite is defective and must be sealed with over and over to protect it.

True, you don't have to apply a granite sealer to an engineered stone counter top. And hey, that's great, but applying a granite sealer is authentically a very uncomplicated and infrequent "wipe on, wipe off" procedure. It is not a major chore and for all practical purposes it isn't a determining factor when comparing Silestone vs. Granite.

Also, it doesn't take a closet full of extra chemicals to protect your granite and keep its luster as Cambria and other engineered stone counter top manufacturers suggest on their websites. Hey, to their credit they are just trying to effectively market their product.

A itsybitsy underground about most granite . . .

You could do nothing but wipe it with a sycophant for years and it would still look gorgeous. Minor, easy maintenance performed periodically will, however, give you peace of mind and bring out the best in your granite and natural stone. And the same can be said about quartz. Care and cleaning is equally easy for whether surface.

Myth #2: Again with the sealing.

You may also read that you must seal granite to say it's shiny polish. Not true. Sealing is for stain resistance. Both natural and artificial stone counter tops are polished by grinding and buffing the surface into a smooth shine.

Myth #3: Granite harbors bacteria.

Silestone also tries to claim their stock resists bacteria while granite "harbors" bacteria. This is totally false. Studies prove that both granite and quartz are among the safest and cleanest surfaces on the market today, but one isn't first-rate to the other.

So Which Countertop Is Best?

Well, once you remove the hype and you understand that artificial quartz countertops and granite accomplish equally well and that the care and cleaning of each surface is essentially the same, the decision in the middle of granite and Silestone, Cambria, Zodiaq or other quartz counter tops usually comes down to color, pattern and perceived value for most buyers.

Color and Value

Granite enjoys a greater "prestige" due to it's natural uniqueness and is therefore, of greater value in the minds of most homeowners and buyers. New granites come on the market all the time from distinct countries providing hundreds and possibly thousands of distinct colors and patterns to select from.

Silestone and other engineered stone manufacturers offer 20-50 color choices all of which have basically the same repetitive pebbled appearance. The benefit here is that you never have a question matching a pattern or color at a seam, which sometimes is a question with granite. Of course, you may end up with the exact same countertop as your neighbor, which won't happen with granite as each slab is unique.

So, whether you select engineered stone or granite you will get an exquisite countertop surface. Just don't listen to all the marketing hype and pick your stock based on what color and pattern you like best.

Silestone vs. Granite Countertops - The Real Story

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Home Bar develop Ideas - 4 Types To select From

There are basically two approaches in installing a home bar. The first one is of policy to form it yourself and build it at home. But you also have a option of getting a practice made home bar with table that comes in 4 types and bar stools.

Whatever way you rule to go, there are four main types of bar designs that are most popular. Let's have a look at them one by one.

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1) level type bar.

This type of home bar is normally used at the end of a room with the distance spanning the width of the room. The storehouse of the drinks and bottles, glasses are normally under the counter table. A minimum of three bar stools can be arranged in a singular row.

2) Back bar

This type of bar has a storehouse arrangement just like a bookshelf. There are three parts to this bar. The first one is the same as a level bar with bottom storehouse with a counter. The middle part is normally open. The third section is above the counter that stores drinks bottles and can have wooden or glass shutters. Thus type of arrangement is done for display purpose.

3) L type wet bar

As the name suggests this bar has a L shape in plan. The short side of the L is normally used to fix built-in sink for washing purpose.

4) corner bar

This type of bar is easily just a small cabinet to store the drinks. This is used where space is an issue. Because space is an issue this type of bar uses maximum storehouse space available using bottom and top
cabinets.

Apart for the type of bar tables there are many factors involved in designing the excellent bar such as finishes, color schemes, lighting to generate a mood. Also if you plan to install a small refrigerator in your home bar then proper electricity supply must be arranged during planning stage itself.

No matter which form style you choose, make sure to plan before you build and you will have a spectacular, palpate with your friends in you own home bar.

Copyright Shrinivas Vaidya

Home Bar develop Ideas - 4 Types To select From

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making ready Dungeness Crab

It's simple! preparing your Dungeness Crab is quick, easy & something the whole house or your guests can enjoy participating in. Dungeness Crab has become very favorite with many folks who are more familiar with other types of crab. preparing icy Dungeness Crab is different: cooking them as if they were live produces less than stellar results.

(Hint: Boiling the Crab on advent is a definite No No)

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Frozen Dungeness Crab is ready to eat when you receive them! It has already been cooked & brine frozen. You can enjoy it hot or cold! Dungeness Crab is available as Whole Cooked Crab and as Crab Sections (Clusters). What's the difference?

Whole Cooked Crab - The whole crab is cooked from live, quick chilled & brine frozen. They are then settled in poly bags. When you receive the crab, they should be re-heated in a steamer (think spaghetti pot with strainer) or oven at 400 F under tented foil. It will take 9-12 minutes to get the interior climatic characteristic of the crab to 165 F. The crab can be steamed from icy or thawed, cleaned and steamed. Do Not Over Cook The Crab! It is already cooked so you just want to re-heat it. If you steam or bake them for too long, you are cooking them twice and the end ensue will be stringy crab meat!

Directions:

Cleaning the Crab:

Hold the Crab in your left hand (claws towards the left) and place your right hand on the back of the top shell.

Put your right thumb under the shell and pull up. The whole top shell should remove in one piece. (Clean & save the shell for an oven baked side dish or ramekin for dipping sauce.)

Pull the green gill material off the inside of the opened Crab.

Next, there is a small "V" section of lower Crab shell in the back that cab be removed with your thumb as well.

Remove the loose brown material from the town of the crab.

Rinse the Crab in Cold Water for a few seconds; this will remove the remainder of the brine & internal pieces.

Heating the Crab before serving:

Take your Spaghetti Pot with Strainer inside, 2 or 3 cups of water in the bottom, bring to a boil and steam crab for about 9-12 minutes (Whole Crab) or 6-9 minutes (Cleaned Crab).

Oven or Bbq method:

Place Crab in a foil lined baking pan or Pyrex dish. Add about 3/8 inch water to the pan bottom.

Cover with an aluminum foil tent.

Place in pre-heated Oven or Bbq at 400 degrees for about 9-12 minutes (Whole Crab) or 6-9 minutes (Cleaned Crab). (165 degree internal temperature)

Dungeness Crab Sections (Clusters) - Most of the work is done for you! The crab may be butchered from live then cooked or cooked as whole crab and then cleaned. Dungeness Sections include all the edible quantum of the crab. Since they are cleaned before freezing, you may enjoy them hot or cold! If you want to eat them cold, just thaw in the refrigerator, rinse over the sink to remove the brine and eat! The crab can be steamed from icy or thawed and steamed. It will take 6-9 minutes to get the interior climatic characteristic of the crab to 165 F. It is already cooked so you just want to re-heat it. If you steam or bake them for too long, you are cooking them twice and the end ensue will be stringy crab meat!

Directions:

Heating the Crab Sections before serving:

Take your Spaghetti Pot with Strainer inside, 2 or 3 cups of water in the bottom, bring to a boil, add crab & steam for 6-9 minutes. Depending on whether you are steaming thawed or steaming from frozen.

Oven or Bbq method:

Place Crab in a foil lined baking pan or Pyrex dish. Add about 3/8 inch water to the pan bottom.

Cover with an aluminum foil tent.

Place in pre-heated Oven or Bbq at 400 degrees for 6-9 minutes depending on whether you are steaming thawed or steaming from frozen. (about as long as a medium rare steak) (165 degree internal temperature)

Enjoy!

making ready Dungeness Crab

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Kitchen Towel Rack Inside Cabinet Door - An Innovative warehouse clarification

The kitchen is one place in the house which should always be kept clean and dry. It is the place where the food is prepared and cooked. This is also the place where germs most likely thrive. In order to assert the cleanliness and orderliness of the place, kitchen towel rack inside cabinet doors are the solution.

Most individuals want their kitchen to be organized. There are several organizing kits which are already made to serve this purpose. The most coarse ones are the cabinets, rack and holders. Cabinets serve as a storehouse area for separate items. Each cabinet usually has the same group of materials grouped together. Examples of which are the glasses which are group together, as well as the plates are separated from the utensils, while someone else cabinet can comprise all the pots and pans. Aside from these items, some cabinets comprise supplies for the kitchen like groceries.

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Racks on the other hand, hold items such as paper towels and towels. usually racks are placed near the sink because this is the place where towels are hanged. It is a more suitable location for the towels to be hanged to dry. Other keep their kitchen towels hanged in oven bars while others keep their kitchen towel in the door of the refrigerator. But there are those who prefer to keep the towel racks somewhere that is not visible at all. The latest innovation, the kitchen towel rack inside the cabinet door is the answer.

There are several advantages for kitchen towel racks inside the cabinet door. One is that it is more organized to look at a kitchen with no kitchen towels hanging around. someone else is for safety purposes, reducing the risk of fire. Aesthetic calculate is the third one because there will be no more holes drilled on the wall.

With kitchen towel racks inside the cabinet door, it is neater because everything will look to be in order now. everything is hidden inside the cabinets, even the towels. someone else advantage, with the kitchen towel rack placed inside the cabinet door, one can avoid putting the towels in oven handles. Towels which are placed in oven handles are usually one of the sources of fire. Due to the extreme heat of the oven, the towel is also heated and turns brittle. One a small flick of fire touches it, it can actually burn which can cause the start of fire in the kitchen. Aside from the oven, the refrigerator handles are also one of the beloved spots for the towels. When a diminutive child uses, it looks dirty and untidy. Lastly since there is no ready place for the towel holders, there is a tendency that new holes are drilled on the wall. It destroys the develop of the kitchen.

It is efficient because the towels can be air-dried inside without any insects flying over it. It is also cleaner because it is not exposed in the kitchen. Aside from these, the towels are now more organized. There are separate designs for these kitchen racks which have more than one handle. The length of the towel racks also differs to suit your towel sizes. Aside from the kitchen towel racks inside the cabinet door, other designs are also available. These designs fit the bathroom and other areas in the house.

Kitchen Towel Rack Inside Cabinet Door - An Innovative warehouse clarification

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How to pick a Wine that Tastes Good - Some Tips for selecting a Wine

We'll start this narrative by request these two questions: "Why is wine so confusing?" and "Does choosing a wine intimidate you?" If your rejoinder to the second quiz, is yes, then you are not alone!

Most population have been to a liquor store or a cafeteria and been positively overwhelmed and intimidated by the sheer range and whole of selections offered. The range of choices among wine varieties, brands, labels, and prices seem roughly infinite.

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Herein lies the problem: There are just too many choices.

So what is the solution to too many choices?

Well, the rejoinder in a few words is: eye your own preference for wine taste.

Many population know when they like a wine. But the difficult part is understanding why. What do you like about it, and how do you impart what it is that you like about that wine? Is it light or full bodied? Is it tannic or not? What are tannins anyway? Is it fruity or sweet? Do fruity and sweet mean the same thing? And, if you try and like a Shiraz, does that mean you will like all Shiraz?

All these questions can be answered by tasting wines, and then tasting more wine! Yet tasting is not enough as you must pay attention to what you are tasting. In my opinion, it is a good idea to learn with comparative tastings. Take for example the Chardonnay grape. It is grown in Mornington Peninsula, Victoria and also in Margaret River, Western Australia. Tasted side-by-side, you may first think that both Chardonnay's have miniature in common, yet they are both made from Chardonnay grapes.

When you taste a wine of the same range side-by-side, you can positively begin to learn the differences between a full bodied and a light bodied wine; and a low tannin wine and a high tannin wine, etc.

Tips on how to choose a wine that is right for you

Step 1: determine if you want a white wine or red wine
Decide either you want a white wine, red wine, sparkling wine, dessert wine or fortified wine. This will narrow down your choices and give you some direction.

Step 2: determine on your preferences for wine taste
Have a think about your own preferences for the taste of a wine. (Tip: Use your knowledge from your comparative wine tastings to help you.)

As a minimum, determine either you prefer a dry or sweet wine. (Dry is the term used to impart the absence of sweetness in a wine.)

If you know your preferences for other wine characteristics, then it will also be a good idea to determine on these. If you don't know your preferences then I have included a short narrative here to help you in your comparative wine tastings.

1. Low Tannins vs High Tannins: Tannins are a vital ingredient in wines, especially red wines. It comes from the stalks, skins and pips of grapes. Tannins in a young wine yield a bitter, puckering taste on the palate.

2. Short Palate vs Long Palate: The "length" of a wine is the whole of time the sensations of taste and aroma persist after swallowing. Usually, the longer the better.

3. Low Acid vs High Acid: Acids of discrete types are present in wine, and are vital to the wine's longevity and also to your enjoyment. Too miniature can influence the wine's quality and too much can spoil the wine. A higher acidity makes the wine more tart and sour tasting; whereas a low acidity results in flat tasting wine that is more susceptible to spoilage.

Acidity is that quality that makes your mouth water and your lips pucker, and without it, wines (and whatever for that matter!) taste pretty flat and one dimensional. However, when acidity is present in the right quantities, it is the element that makes all of the other flavours in the wine stand out, including the undertones of fruit, spice and herbs. The flavour in wine that you would impart as tangy, sharp, refreshing, bracing, bright, crisp or zingy is the acidity.

4. Light Bodied vs Full Bodied: To get a photo of the differences between a light-bodied wine and a full-bodied wine think about milk as an analogy. Light-bodied is analogous to skim milk and full-bodied wine analogous to full-cream milk, and the variations in the "body" of wne are like varying levels of fat-content in milk.

What makes it even easier, is that a wine's body is directly proportional to its alcohol content. On every wine label you'll consideration a percentage of alcohol by volume. Note how it applies to body:

* 7.5% - 10.5% indicates light body

* 10.5% - 12.5% indicates medium body

* 12.5% and over indicates full body

5. No Oak vs Heavy Oak: Wines might be stored in oak barrels, usually to impart extra and more complex flavours. French, American and German oak barrels are widely used in Australia. Oaky describes the aroma or taste quality imparted to a wine by the oak barrels in which it was aged. The terms toasty, vanilla, dill, cedary and smoky indicate the desirable qualities of oak; charred, burnt, green cedar, lumber and plywood impart its unpleasant side.

Step 3: Buy wine that is well looked after, like at the cellar door
It is prominent to purchase wine from liquor outlets that take proper care of their wine, e.g. Buying direct from the winery's cellar door is a good option. Greatest heat or cold, direct sunlight, and dramatic climatic characteristic fluctuations are not good for wine. Also, before you buy, make sure the wine is filled up to the neck of the bottle, the cork is not pushing out of the bottle, and there are no signs of leakage.

Step 4: Enjoy exploring the range and diversity of Australian wine
There are lots of good reasons to eye all of the wines that Australia has to offer in all its diversity. Don't just stick to the familiar varieties like Chardonnay or Shiraz - experiment with other whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer or reds like Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir. Also, try examples of a singular range from different wine regions to understand how regional conditions influence the wine's character. Expose yourself to every type of wine. The more you taste the more you will understand and the easier wine choice will become.

Step 5: Buy by the case
When you find a wine you positively like, reconsider buying wine by the case (12 bottles). Most wineries will offer you a 10% or 15% wine reduction when you purchase a case of wine or more.

Step 6: Only rely on your own taste buds
The Greatest goal of wine buying is to buy wines that taste good to you. Just because a merchant, friend or wine writer says a wine is good doesn't mean you'll like it. Conversely, don't shy away from a wine because person else says that it is no good. The only judge of good taste in wine is you.

And herein lies one of the biggest benefits of so much choice: you are sure to find wines that are perfect for your own unique taste buds. All you need is just a miniature knowledge as described above and the willingness to explore. If you are concerned in comparative wine tasting, www.boutiquewineries.com.au may be a good place to get started.

And most importantly, be open to the possibilities and then, make note of them and learn from them.

How to pick a Wine that Tastes Good - Some Tips for selecting a Wine

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Reading Blueprints - 15 Tips to Help You Understand Drawings, Elevations and Floor Plans

Blueprints are nothing more than copies of the final plans drawn up for the home owners' approval. Very detailed, these documents consist of a wealth of information. Typically, a blueprint box includes a set of drawings called elevations, illustrating covering and interior walls. But that's not all. The box contains other drawings. One is of your construction site, and someone else drawing illustrates the foundation of the house. The reflected ceiling plan reveals where light fixtures are to be placed.

In addition, each blueprint incorporates a materials list with sizes and quantities of all principal components required to construct the construction features. This information enables the undertaker of a package deal to compile construction costs. There is one supplementary kind of blueprints-the floorplans-with which population are probably the most familiar. Here's an insider's guide to reading the plans to your dream home.

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1. Scale and dimensions are clearly indicated.

The scale of blueprints may be 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the foot. Anything the scale, it will be noted in one of the lower corners of the blueprint. All blueprints to the house are drawn to the same scale. Dimensions are noted in feet and inches. In most cases, the length and width of all the covering walls are shown in addition to dimensions of each room. With this information in hand, you can indeed conclude which rooms are best sized for varied family activities. You can also plan for the arrangement of furnishings.

2. covering walls are represented by thick parallel lines, and interior walls are represented by thinner lines.

The placement of the walls, particularly the decisions you make regarding the interior partition walls, greatly influence the layout of your home. And, if you can understand the exact placement when you first receive the blueprints, you'll likely make fewer changes as the process evolves, cutting down on unnecessary and unforeseen expenses to your project.

3. Rooms are clearly labeled by function- kitchen, living, dining, etc.

Built-in items within rooms also are presented in a logical fashion. For example, as you study the documents, fireplaces, closets and built-ins come to be obvious. Also apparent are the placement of kitchen and bathroom fixtures, counters, sinks, cabinetry and kitchen appliances.

4. It's easy to conclude ceiling configurations and two-story rooms.

A series of parallel dashes across a room denotes a ceiling beam; an arrow accompanied by the word "sloped" marks a cathedral ceiling. A double-height room is easy to spot. The blueprint of the lower level bears the notation "open to above" and the upper level "open to below."

5. Doors are represented by a level line.

When you study the blueprint of the floorplan, pretend that you are walking straight through the actual house. Visualize the two-dimensional blueprints in a three-dimensional form. This technique helps you transform the data and symbols into something more real. A good place to start is at the entryway. From there, you can clearly see the ample club of the home's interior. In houses designed today, rooms are placed into one of three zones dedicated to living (family room, dining room and living room), work (kitchen, laundry and utility rooms) or sleeping (bedrooms and corresponding bathrooms). They appear as if open with a thinner, curving line showing the space required for them to close.

French doors have two level and two curved lines. Two overlapping sets of level lines is the emblem for sliding glass doors. Parallel solid lines within walls are windows. Like doors, overlapping lines indicate sliding window units. As you study the placement of windows and doors, you can conclude if they will permit good ventilation and natural lighting of the interior, as well as make the most of covering views and provide enough passage to the outdoors.

6. On the blueprints of a two-story house, you will encounter a staircase, revealed by a group of parallel lines.

The amount of lines is equal to the amount of steps. The lines are accompanied by arrows. Those labeled "up" mean that the staircase leads to a higher level; conversely, those labeled "down" lead to a lower level.

7. Letters on the drawings serve as keys to the information listed in the margins.

For example, on the blueprint of the floorplan, a series of circled letters beginning with "A" refer to the types of doors selected. This "door schedule," as it is called, coordinates the location of each door, as well as the style and size. A closet door, for example, has a circled letter at the proper place on the blueprint. In reading the blueprint, the corresponding margin notation may read something like "2'-0" solid core flush door, paint-grade veneer."

8. Openings on the blueprint for windows bear a amount within a circle.

This marking refers to the list of window styles and sizes cited in the window program in the blueprint margin. As an example, a bathroom window may bear the designation of "1" in a circle. Seeing at the window schedule, the circled 1 may be listed as a "3'0" x 2'10" awning window."

9. The same advent applies to electrical symbols.

Here are some base examples: A capital "S" stands for a wall switch that controls an overhead light fixture. A capital "S" with a subscript "3" refers to a three-way wall switch. A capital "J" in a box marks the location of a junction box. A capital "L" in a circle is the site of an covering light fixture. A triangle indicates the location of a telephone receptacle.

10. Large letters accompanied by carets (>) pointing toward each wall refer to an elevation, or drawing, of the wall as it will appear when built.

An covering elevation is graphic by a large letter and a 90-degree, angled line to the side.

11. The placement of appliances and fixtures is easy to determine.

The emblem for a kitchen range or cooktop is four circles within a square. Bird's-eye drawings are used to rehearse the refrigerator, kitchen sink, bath sinks, toilets and showers. In the kitchen, a series of dashes accompanied by the notation "Dw" mark the location of an undercounter dishwasher. Look thought about to see that the appliances have been placed where you want them. Again, visualize yourself inside of the home, making ready meals (or doing the dishes).

12. Tile flooring also is easy to spot.

It is graphic by an expanse of small squares in the bathroom or in front of a fireplace drawing.

13. Elevations rehearse how the walls of the house will appear when built.

Interior wall elevations consist of drawings of fireplaces, cabinets and shelving, windows, doors and other desired built-in elements. covering elevations note the location of windows, doors and other items such as roof eaves.

14. Together with the elevations may be some drawings which figure the construction details.

Frequently, you'll find drawings outlining the configuration of covering corners. Or, you may be given the foundation footings and column bases, indicating depths and widths.

15. Sections provide a see-through representation of the house.

You can visually see how varied elements of the house will align when construction is completed. This is helpful in visualizing porticos and other details of the facade, as well as outdoor decks, arcades and any attractive aspects. If this seems too overwhelming, don't try to digest all of the information that blueprints provide at one sitting. Study them in a leisurely manner, allowing the house to describe itself to you slowly over time. Then, when you have a firm idea of what your new log home will look like and how it will function, you'll have much more confidence in your leap of faith to start building.

Reading Blueprints - 15 Tips to Help You Understand Drawings, Elevations and Floor Plans

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Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

I get many questions regarding details of an accessible kitchen. Questions like, what is the approved countertop height from the floor to the top of the counter, or what is the approved toe-kick. The list goes on and on.  Are there extra appliances or cabinets? In this description I will cover the basics, cabinets, flooring, lighting, electrical, and ultimately appliances.

Cabinets
Most cabinet manufacturers offer definite Ada compliant cabinets which will give you a final countertop height of 32" from the floor to the top of the counter. They will also contain the allowable toe-kick of 9" high by 6" deep. This provides room for the foot rest of a wheelchair to slide under the edge of the cabinet. This however does not contribute access to the cook-top or sink. The base cabinets that will house these items will need to have knee space under the countertop. Now upper cabinets present a dissimilar set of problems. Even if they are installed at the approved height above the base cabinets only the lowest shelf will be accessible to man seated in a wheelchair. I personally like to lower them other 6" so that the lowest two shelves are accessible. Or you could save the charge and just leave them out. One last item, the base cabinets should have large deep drawers instead of cabinet doors, as these are more accessible.  

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Flooring
The flooring should be hard surface, such as wood or ceramic tile or stone. You should avoid any kind of flooring that has give or is cushioned. This kind of floor makes it difficult to move a by hand wheelchair around as does wall to wall floor covering or area rugs. Avoid these items if at all possible. Even the most innocent of kitchen rugs can be a hazardous tripping hazard for the disabled or elderly.
 
Lighting
With today's need to be green, lighting for the accessible kitchen is no longer thought about specialized. The use of Cfl (Compact Florescent Light) bulbs and Led under cabinet low voltage task lighting is common place. So the only thing that actually needs to be said is that you need to contribute task lighting in all food establishment areas.
 
Electrical
This is one area that is often overlooked as far where and how to install electrical outlets and switches in an accessible kitchen.  Wall outlets are ordinarily located behind the base cabinet, either above or in the backsplash. For man seated in a wheelchair this means they have to make a hazardous reach in order to use the outlet. It is great to install the outlet in the face of the base cabinet, just under the countertop. Or a popup multi-outlet can be installed in the countertop itself within easy reach of the wheelchair occupant. Switches should be located at 48" above the floor so that they are within reach of the wheelchair occupant. Use rocker type switches for those with tiny use of their fingers. ultimately outlets that are on a wall without cabinets should be at least 18" above the floor for a safe reach in a wheelchair.

Appliances
While there is no need for specialized or institution appliances, sure types of appliances are best in an accessible kitchen. Let's start with the stove for example, a accepted range cannot be used, A detach cook-top and oven unit will need to be used. As mentioned before the cook-top will need a knee space below the cabinet. The oven should be mounted in a base cabinet so it can be actually loaded and unloaded. A heat unyielding exterior at countertop level should be provided to place hot pans on. Next a drawer type dishwasher can be mounted conventionally and actually accessed from a wheelchair. However, a approved front loading dishwasher will need to be raised 9" to make it easy to load and unload. The sinks will have to have rear mounted drains to allow for the knee space below and still allow for a disposal. The microwave should be mounted below the countertop. ultimately the refrigerator should either be a side by side model or a French door model with the freezer on the bottom.
 
There are probably other items that you can do to make a kitchen even more accessible. Try sitting in a approved kitchen chair in front of a problem area and ask yourself what can I change, that will make this area more accessible.  I hope this helps those of you who need to make your kitchen more accessible for a wheelchair. If you have any questions don't hesitate ask. Remember breath Peace and God's Love..... 

Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

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